Hi Rich,
It looks as if you have got a
discount price for flowers!
Yeah, it would have been a ruggies’
dream, but I must disappoint you, sorry: neither Mouraviev, nor Burnes,
nor O’Donovan (in my humble opinion the three most interesting travelers
between 1820 and 1880), had any particular interest for rugs, even though
all three had an outstanding talent for observation, as competent spies
should have. The latter one was (officially) the correspondent of the
British «Daily News» covering the Russian attack on the Akhal Teke
stronghold, the other two were soldiers on fact-finding missions. Their
reports are good reading for anybody interested in history, ethnology and
sociology of the Turkomans. Then, both Britons had a ...well,.. British
sense of humor. There is even an interesting mention of London’s peep
shows.(Not kidding).
A ruggie must give himself satisfied with only
a few little shots of his favorite drug:
For example in O’Donovan’s
report:
Page 115, Book I:
The skull of the wild desert sheep,
with its enormous curled horns, the usual Turkoman sepulchral
ornament....Question: are these the same horns as those so
prominent on top of Ersari & Beshir namazlik «prayer rugs»? Are they
truly prayer rugs? O'Donovan assures his readers that the huge horns were
in no way related with the behavior of Turkoman ladies and he should
know.
Page 225. Book I and Page 347 Book II :
«...a visitor
draws aside the carpet which hangs curtain-wise before the door (of the
kibitka)»...«...Then the carpet which hung curtain-wise before it was
trust aside...» Question: A clear allusion to an ensi? Please note
that O’Donovan gives a very precise description of the making of a felt
mat and has watched for months the young ladies of the yurt weaving
carpets. He systematically mentions whether a rug is made of felt or
woven. He does indeed speak of pile rugs here.
Page 178. Book II:
«...special carpets of small sizes were immediately laid for
Baba khan (Note: khan of the Tokhatamish Tekes of Merv) and myself close
to the lattice...» I remember a rather animated discussion in
Turkotek on the possible use of small rugs. This could be a useful
information.
Page 415. Book II. Turkomans have a peculiar way of
looking and interpreting a design,
«forgetting what I may call the
positive design, the intervals between the objects delineated striking the
eye more than the objects themselves».... That rings a bell,
doesn’t it?
In Burnes’ report:
Page 58. Book II:
«......The
Turkomans have no mosques; they say their prayers in the tent or in the
desert, without ablution, and without a carpet. They have few
Moollahs or priests, for the church has little honour among them, and they
are but poor followers of the prophet.....».This total absence of
prayer rugs, even among the Ersaris is confirmed by O’Donovan. Even the
back of a horse or of a camel is a perfectly legitimate place for the
prayer. Who were then the customers who ordered the beautiful Ersari- or
Beshir namazliks? Indian- or Persian Bokhara merchants, or the Uzbek
leadership? Hardly Turkomans. Or were namazliks woven for another use? Or
had Ersari weaver nothing to do with these rugs, after all?
Page
59-60. Book II: A Salor’s yurt at Sharacks (on the Tejen river) in 1831.
«.... I was very agreeably surprised to find these wandering people
living here, at least, in luxury. The tent or khirgah was spacious, and
had a diameter of about twenty-five feet. The sides were of lattice-work,
and the roof was formed of laths, which branched from a circular hoop,
about three feet in diameter, through which the light is admitted. The
floor was spread with felt and carpets, of the richest manufacture, which
looked like velvet.
Fringed carpets were also hung up round the tent,
which gave it a great finish, and their beauty was no doubt enhanced by
their being the work of wives and daughters.
On one side of the tent
was a small press, in which the females of the family kept their clothes,
and above it were piled the quilts on which they slept. These are of
variegated coloured cloth, both silk and cotton. From the circular
aperture in the roof, three large tassels of silk were suspended,
differing in colour, and neatly wrought by some fair young
hand...»O’ Donovan too describes a few yurts, for example page
140-141. Book II
«...the furniture of an ev is very simple. The fire
occupies its middle, immediately under the center opening of the dome. The
half of the floor remote from the entrance is covered with a ketché, or
felt carpet, nearly an inch in thickness. On this are laid, Turkoman
carpets, six or seven feet long by four to five in breadth, on which the
inhabitants sit by day and sleep by night. A special bed is unknown to a
Turkoman. The semi circle next the door is of bare earth, and on it
chopping of wood, cooking and other rough domestic operations are
conducted. Round the wall hang large flat camel bags six feet by four
(!?! slip of the, pen?), one side being entirely composed of the
rich carpet work in which the Turkoman excel. Ordinarily, all the
household goods are packed in these bags, for transit from place to place
on the back of camels. When empty they form a picturesque
tapestry....«Toonik» , lamb or goat skins, the neck kept open by crossed
sticks, hang under the roof and swing to and fro in the air draft produced
by the fire...»There is unanimity among all three authors
about the way of life of the Turkomans. With exception of a portion of the
Amu darya Ersari and a minority of Yomud near Khiva, all other Turkomans
were still nomads, until the Russian conquest. There was not a single town
settled by them. «Merv-city» was destroyed by the king of Bokhara around
1785 and the oasis was still a cluster of yurt villages in 1884. «Allaman»
(slave hunting), horses, green tea, melted sheep tail fat (Turkoman haute
cuisine) and idleness were still their idea of Allah’s paradise. Selling
carpet was much more the exception than the rule. In none of the many
bazaars visited and described in detail by our spies did they mention a
carpet shop. Horses and carpets were kept in the family, offered as
expensive gifts, stolen in raids on other tribes but apparently very
rarely sold.
A last point to please our hard working Steve: The
authors signal huge herds of Turkoman camels all over the place. In
particular O’Donovan met a sea of these smiling beasts between the Atterek
and Gurgien rivers (South East of the Caspian in Yomud and Göklen
territory) and Burnes was impressed by a huge herd North of Merv (Saryk
tribe). Apparently an expert launched an ukase to the effect that
«Turkoman tribes did not raise camels». And the amazlik where woven to
keep TV sets from desert dust.
Best regards
Pierre