Intermim Report: Best of Intentions
Dear folks -
I am sitting as I write near the harbor in
Bodrum.
This only to report on the fact that I had the best of intentions
not to buy really anything as we traveled in Turkey. I bought one small Turkmen
camel head dress fragment early in Istanbul just to be able to say that I had
bought something at ICOC and I did not buy at the conference dealers
fair.
But now in the countryside my resolve is weakening. In Bergama I
bought a heybey a complete grain bag and a delicate eating cloth. Also a kind of
painted wooden needle (probably Central Asian and maybe without much age but
attractive). In Selcuk I bought a Yomut bag of a format wıth which I was not
previously familiar one worn on the waist and used to sow grain. I also tried to
buy a very fine fragment from a saddle bag but the owner has not yet decided to
sell it.
I am encountering lots of interesting new things about rugs and
textiles and there is basis for some interesting reports when we
return.
I cannot predict internet access as we move west along the
Mediterranean.
Regards
R. John Howe
Internet Access Two Nights in a Row
Dear folks -
Tonight we are are in Gocek, again down a steep mountain
and on the water.
There are some serious textiles here, but so far not
without accompanying serious prices. I looked at a quite old Lakai piece with a
shape like a Turkmen ok bash. Done on fine red felt with absolutely wonderful
embroidery. I will have a photo sometime. Unfortunately, the asking price was
high enough to discourage me from even trying to translate it into
USD.
Gorek is also the town to which the English dealer Richard Purdom
has moved, and Jo and I will have coffee with him tomorrow morning.
I saw
a metal Turkmen breadmaking tool today (I own the only other one I've seen, but
they are not rare, rare). This tool has a nice shaped handle that fits smoothly
in one's hand and then below a set of "spikes" are set pointing down all over
the bottom of its cylindrical shape. It is used for striking holes in bread
dough to prevent it from rising. (Most kabob restaurants have a similar tool now
designed as a roller.) The sides of such tools are lavishly engraved (one
wonders why for a similar "kitchen" tool of this sort). This one had less design
on it than mine. Four blue stones are set in it at one curved area. Some quite
experienced Turkmen fanatics have not seen this sort of tool.
Gocek, in
my view, is a distinct improvement on Bodrum.
Coming to Gocek we had to
pass, early on, a "rug farm" sign that amused my wife. She insisted we stop.
Largely brand new pieces from surrounding villages. They said he "rug farm"
reference is to the fact that they spread new rugs out in the sun to take the
brightness out of their colors.
They had a very attractive old kilim
fragment on one wall, but the price they quoted when I asked about it suggested
that they are not interested in selling it. I'll have a photo of it too,
sometime.
The sign above their exit gate said "Leaving?" "Why?" Not
apparently a reference to the possibility that you may not have bought
something, but rather a more general Turkish philosophical observation asked on
a number of leave-taking occasions.
Regards,
R. John Howe
Antalya and Saul Prefigured in Konya
Dear folks -
Tonight we are in Konya (four hour drive from Anatalya
our last previous stop) and have only visited one rug dealer so far before
dinner.
But tonight's report is on Antalya and we can say that it is
possible to find good pensions, good restaurants and good rugs all within about
a two hundred meter diameter.
We saw lots of interesting material, but
the damage to our budget was modest. We bought one Turkish village rug fragment
(it's from the Konya area) and a complete, flatwoven Yomut Turkmen tent band.
Very fine and with a design I don't think is is precisely like any other I've
seen before.
If we can survive the dealers of Konya, there may be a few
pennies for an interesting thing or two in Cappadocia.
As we checked into
our hotel in Konya late this afternoon, they volunteered that Saul Barodofsky
will be checking in just after we leave town and are dealing with the wonders of
Cappadocia.
Saul, I had not realized that rug dealers lived this well on
the road. It ain't cheap, but it's very nice.
Regards,
R. John
Howe
Museums and Two Fragments in Konya So Far
Dear folks -
It's about 4:30 pm Konya time and we've seen three
museums and spent quite a bit of time with one rug dealer.
Bought two
items and held back on one more that I wanted. I bought what I believe is a
quite old Turkish yastik fragment (said to be from the Konya area) and a
full-pile fragment of a Kyrghyz bag face with good color and strong graphics.
I'll conserve the yastik, sewing it onto a backing, and I'll wash the Kyrghyz
piece.
I took a great many photos of some strong material in the Konya
museums. There seem not to be any catalogs so far. There was no bar on touching.
I tried to remember to touch a 13th century Selcuk piece with only the backs of
my fingers where I heard Jon Thompson say recently in Istanbul, that there are
no sweat glands. But I know what a 13th century pile rug feels
like.
Regards,
R. John Howe
A Second Stop in Instanbul
Dear folks -
It is Sunday, 4/13, afternoon, and we flew back to
Istanbul from Kayseri yesterday in the morning.
I think the damage to my
bank account, since my last report is containable (I cannot tell for sure
because the ATMs here in Turkey are not able to tell me what my balance is ).
Gerome, in Cappadocia,
is a delightful small town with one very serious dealer (appointment only). I
looked at a lot of material I couldn't afford, and some more that I shouldn't,
and finally bought a complete Anatolian bag with good color that I thought was
the sort of thing I might be able better to manage.
Yesterday afternoon,
back here in Istanbul, my bride and I weakened over some new suzanis and suzani
materials that are being produced. They are quite wonderful. One strip 50 meters
long, is not just beautifully embroidered, but done on a partly silk ground
fabric. We bought a couple of these pieces, one for our bedspread back home. I'm
not sure I dare use some of the strip to have a sport coat made, but it is
tempting.
Most everything is shut down today, because it is Sunday, but I
will see one more rug dealer before we leave town. Hopefully, we will
escape.
I have not had access to email during this trip, or I would be
sharing images. That has to wait until we return. I just checked and find that I
have taken 1982 images so far with my digital. I expect my wife has a nearly
equal number from the single-reflex 35mm. So some reflection and winnowing is
needed before sharing.
I will write again, after recovering from the jet
lag.
We recommend Turkey to everyone!
Regards,
R. John
Howe