A Mystery Piece Bought in Bergama
Dear Folks -
My wife is more interested in archeology than I, and when
we first arrived in Bergama, she ferreted out a red brick ruin that could be
seen from the street.
I took a few photos of it, then hung about, while she spent
more time than I could imagine was deserving, examining all the provided
informational details.
On one side of this ruin there was a street of rug
shops with garish pieces hung and laid about in profusion.
Our car was on the other side of
the street from these shops and when she came back, she asked whether I was
going to take a look inside any of these shops. I admitted that I was not
encouraged, but she wanted to look into one, so we crossed the street and did.
A young dealer pulled a lot of material off stacks in response to her
questions while I watched. Finally, I asked whether he had older material and he
looked around and found one reasonable Shiraz, about 5 X7, with decent natural
dyes, and a price that would have been a reasonable beginning for bargaining had
it interested me. I said to him that I was surprised that there wasn’t more
antique material visible in Bergama and he said “My uncle has antiques.” (There
is always a father or brother or uncle nearby who has anything you ask about
that a given dealer seems not to have.)
So we walked a couple of blocks
to the uncle’s shop. It turned out that the uncle is mostly a dealer in Ottoman
antiques, metal, tile, wood, jewelry. There are some textiles scattered about,
but these are clearly not what he is about. We wander about the shop. Now,
ultimately, we bought three pieces in this place, but I want here to talk about
only one of them.
In the back of the shop, rather obscure on a shelf, I
saw the end of something that looked potentially interesting.
The dealer took it down and we
unrolled it. It was about a foot wide and maybe 10-12 feet long.
It intrigued me. I had not,
I think, seen anything like it before. The ground is ivory wool plain weave with
some decoration on its length, but especially on its ends.
The field decoration is the result
of what may be blue-stemmed and abstracted red flowers pointing inward. The
stems vary in length ascending and descending alternatively, so as to form
another set of diamonds down the negative space of the field’s center. This
decoration of the field was done on the loom.
The ends are done in a fine slit
tapestry. In some areas cotton has been employed. The designs on both ends are
composed of four regular diamond forms bracketed top and bottom by rows of small
reciprocating stepped polygons which are themselves bounded top and bottom by
small banded borders. At first glance one thinks that the white in these end
designs is negative space of the ivory wool ground operating as positive design
elements.
But
then one notices that the color in the end finish designs are white, not ivory.
These are the cotton areas.
Here is a look at its back.
Now I thought this piece
attractive, despite the fact that it has stains in places on it.
I thought it exhibited a
nice, crisp, economical design, using a fairly narrow palette, but one that, at
five, is in fact wider than an initial impression would suggest. In addition to
its ground ivory, it exhibits a lighter blue, a red, a black and a soft
orange.
The drawing, while abstracted, is very regular over a large area
and the designs are applied and rendered in a very finished way.
But a
further source of attraction for me was that I did not think I had encountered
this format before. It was a kind of mild mystery and that is how I want to
present it to you here.
What are your own thoughts about what this format
is and how it might have been used? Further, I bought it in Bergama, but do you
seen any indications that would suggest where it was woven?
As usual, all
thoughts and opinions are sought. Those with rationales will be responded to.
Regards,
R.
John Howe
Hi John.
Very interesting piece. Looking forward to the learned
commentary.
__________________
Rich
Larkin
Wrapped
G'day John,
This piece appeals to me in its sophisticated simplicity -
not an ideal term of expression, however that is how it strikes me.
My
immediate thought is that it may be a wrap - whether for male or female is
beyond me, but I see it as an ornamental extra thrown over the shoulder and
around, with perhaps the detailed end with the split weave patterning ending in
the lower front of the person.
Could it be worn by a performance person,
such as a musician? I cant really see it as a static covering for something, one
would imagine it to have the decorated split weaver then on both
ends.
Nonetheless, it is an interesting piece which Im sure will have
people wracking their brains
Regards,
Marty.
Dear folks -
I am not going to respond to Marty's suggestion for the
moment, but instead want to give you here what the dealer who had it said he
thought it was.
He said that it was an "eating cloth," a soufreh (my word
not his) of some sort.
It seemed a bit fragile for that, although there
were stains, that could have occurred in such use.
Regards,
R.
John Howe
hi john
interesting piece.
my first thougt was sofreh (and not
because of the stains) but it seems awfully long and narrow. and its not a kilim
is it - it's a tapestry weave?
i think marty is on track. a wrap of some
kind....
i am more interested, however, in an attribution.
caucasian......?????????
cheers
richard tomlinson
Hi,
My first guess would be that It migth be a Balkan
kilim.
Cevat Kanig
Hi Cevat -
What do you see that makes you think Balkan
kilim?
Regards,
R. John Howe
Hi John,
The Design and the coloration of the kilim reminded me
Manastir kilims.
Regards.
Cevat Kanig
Dear folks -
Manastir kilims often have yellow grounds, but the
instance below may exhibit some of the features that Canig is
remembering.
http://www.yorukruggallery.com/images/stories/Image/Image/Kilims/Kilim%20Manastir%202%20x3%206.jpg
If
you can enlarge this image, you will see that some of the drawing of the end
diamonds on my piece is similar that on this piece.
I think this rug may
be for sale so no evaluating or price comments please.
Regards,
R.
John Howe
eating cloth
John,
The eating cloth idea also struck me at first look. I know Arabs
would often arrange themselves in a long, narrow double file, seated on the
ground, on festive occasions involving eating. I don't recall any such textiles
as this one, however.
__________________
Rich
Larkin
Hi John,
My name is not Canig, it is Cevat
Kanig.
Regards.
Cevat KANIG
Apologies and...
Cevat -
My apologies. Last Tuesday I could have pleaded jet lag, but
it's too late for that now.
My mother taught me to be more careful of the
names of other people.
Does the Manastir piece I posted have features
similar to what you were thinking of?
To those thinking
"soufreh":
Well, it is appropriately long, but it's too narrow at 12" for
people to eat on sitting directly opposite. If they sat staggered it might work.
It is marked with design indentations similar to those we often see on
soufrehs.
Here, below, is an image of a Kurdish or Afshar soufreh I
own.
You can
see the side identations in its design, but believe me, this latter piece is a
very different animal than the piece I found in Bergama. This latter piece is
heavy and sturdy and would serve very well as an eating cloth. (It's longer than
it looks because I've folded it here to cover a couple of holes in its field.)
If this Bergama piece is a soufreh, it is for some very small people who
eat very delicately.
The are smaller soufrehs used to wrap such things as
bread, but I think my Bergama piece far too long for that.
"Soufreh,"
examined a bit, seems less likely to me as a possible format and use for this
piece.
Regards,
R. John Howe
Hi John
nice catch, sofreh no, could it be a burial cloth? Forensic
analysis of the stain might help .
We perhaps could do something on stain removal eventually.
Cordially,
Horst
Hi Horst -
Well, it's longish and seems capable of some winding, but,
oddly, I had one other suggestion from a dealer, who looked at it downstream
from Bergama, that has a kind of congruence with your suggestion.
He said
that some of the material in this Bergama piece is the kind of combination of
cotton and linen that the Egyptians used to wrap their mummies.
So there
is a sense in which your suggestion has support from another
quarter.
Regards,
R. John Howe
Questioning My Sense of Touch
Horst et al -
I'm now beginning to question a bit my sense of touch
with regard to this piece.
In my initial post I described the basic
ground material as wool.
But this afternoon I've been reading again my
diary that I kept during our trip and see the following
passage:
"...'Experienced 0ttoman dealer' says that the ground cloth is a
mixture of cotton and linen similar to the cloth the Egyptians used to wrap
their mummies. He says that we should emphatically not wash this piece. He says
it has been washed once and that there is a little color transfer from red into
white areas (dyes may not be natural). He says the stains are from rust and will
not come out. But he does think the piece is over 100 years old, and he is
visibly taken with it..."
Anyway, either my tactile skills or my memory
seem(s) to need recalibrating.
Regards,
R. John Howe
Hi John,
I was in Bergama 1983 or 84 { i was 16 or 17 } with my older
brother traveling Anatolia, We bougth a Yunce yoruk kilim in Bergama that time
it was a very old fragment tough, we bougth some other thing else but i dont
remember the others,in the 70's and 80's you had chances to find realy nice
piece in Anatolia, naturely they all desipered from the market at this
time.
On the way of balikesir we stop by a rug store in Balikesir,the
dealer had many nice Anatolian kilim one of them was an
Ottoman kilim
fragment that i asked to my brother to buy it
, bud he did not, he thougth it
is a persian kilim because of diffrent coloration,but we bougth many pieces
instate,
later on he learn that it was an ottoman kilim fragment, these day
in Anatolia you don't see many piece.
Thanks for reminding me Those days
with two pictures from Bergama.
The kilim you bougth there,i realy don't know
what it is, could be a weaving from Balikesir area or any where else.
Regards.
Cevat
Kanig
Geographic Source
Hi Cevat -
You mention Balikesir as a possible place where this piece
was woven and that is the only specific location anyone else has suggested to me
so far.
A very cultured Ottoman dealer down the road in Selcuk said that
this piece (and a heybe that you have not yet seen) that I bought from this
Bergama Ottoman antique dealer were woven in Balikesir.
It might be
useful to indicate where this is. Balikesir is, most usually, a reference to a
province in northwest Anatolia (there is also a Balikesir city). Here is a link
to some specifics.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bal%C4%B1kesir_Province
Note
that this province is not the one in the furthest northwest corner of Anatolia,
but that it surrouds the one that is, with areas that border both the Sea of
Marmara and the Agean. It is also opposite the European part of Turkey that
includes the area where Manastir kilims are woven. So in that sense, Cevat's
conjecture of similarity with Manastir kilim features is not a geographic
stretch.
But Balikesir is the most specific attribution I have been
given, and it was given without any really specific justifying indicators (In
fact, the Selcuk Ottoman antiques dealer who gave it to me seemed a little
puzzled by my request for indicators. It emerged in halting English that it just
"looked like" a Balikesir piece to him. Given our mutual handicap of the lack of
a common language it seemed impolite to be more insistent. He wasn't selling me
the piece, only commenting on it)
I'll wait a bit before I say what
several folks "downstream" from Bergama said about how this piece was likely
used. I'm hoping that Wendel Swan will take a "swing" at use. He likes mystery
pieces.
Regards,
R. John Howe
Hi John,
This weaving, with its lighter weight and more nearly
balanced weave, rather than weft-faced tapestry kilim structure, reminds me of
things that I saw being woven many years ago in a couple of little towns on a
road going southeast from Balikiser—the towns of Bigadic and Sindirgi. The looms
were large two-harness treadle looms, and were being used for a variety of
simple household items—the kinds of weavings that rarely reach the marketplace.
We tend to forget that in the past, clothing and all sorts of light-weight
household fabrics were produced all over Turkey that were non-commercial, and
woven on looms that were quite different from the sturdy rug looms with which we
are most familiar. I do agree that the tapestry borders on this piece seem
related to details on some small “Manister” kilims—pieces woven in Western
Turkey by Turks who had moved back to Anatolia from the Balkans. The linear
“inlay” details in the body of the piece could be from anywhere.
Marla
Dear folks -
First, a thanks to Marla for her comment on this
piece.
As I said, the person who sold it to me, who was admittedly mostly
in Ottoman antiques other than textiles, said that it was an eating
cloth.
Marty Grove said immediately that it seemed more likely to him to
have been used as a "wrap" and that is precisely what the consensus view was
from a number of folks that saw it "downstream" from Bergama.
The
consensus is that it was folded in two lengthwise (someone did it and that's why
there is a crease in it now) and then wrapped around and around the waist to
form a sash. The wrapping would have been done so that the two decorated ends
pointed down.
Into this wrapped sash one would tuck one's wallet, one's
knife, one's pistol, etc. It served as a kind of all-purpose pocket.
I
think it one of the more interesting pieces I own despite the fact that it may
be impossible to clean and difficult to display in a one-bedroom
condo.
Thanks to all, for their thoughts about
it.
Regards,
R. John Howe
Hi John
I noticed the fold along the length, too, and am kind of
puzzled by it. The direction of the fold is such that the reverse side of the
brocaded ends would be exposed, rather than their "proper" faces. This seems
pretty unlikely (to me) to be the way it was used originally, and my best guess
is that the fold was put into it after it was retired and wound up under a stack
of heavy things in a dealer's place.
Regards
Steve Price
Steve -
This piece was folded and refolded lengthwise several times
after I bought it (I usually put it flat again, each time, so that I could ask
the next person about it uncued) and I think it is just chance that the last
fold before this photo was taken was a "backwards" one so to speak.
I
think because it has been folded so frequently in use, it now takes a fold
readily, regardless of the direction in which that is
made.
Regards,
R. John Howe