Khmer Weavings
I'd like to put up a few of the Khmer phasins from Ajarn Wismai's collection
even though I am not able to say much about them.
The Vietnam conflict and its aftermath certainly destroyed Cambodia as it was,
and as it is well known that the Pol Pot "agrarian reform" caused the deaths
of millions of people along with the destruction of that society. Everyone knows
that Pol Pot was finally defeated, but if you visit Siem Reap and the magnificent
Angkor Wat complex, after being amazed at the 13th century ruins, look to the
surrounding villages and note that there is no electricity, or running water,
or any buildings of substance, and hardly any paved roads, and mark the apparent
age of most all the people - hardly anyone is old. They're gone. Pol Pot's legacy
is there for anyone to see.
Laos was, of course, also mostly destroyed by warfare. Here's an extended quote
from what Douang-Deuane Bounyavong of the Ministry of Culture, Lao P.D.R. had
to say in an article titled "Traditional Textiles in Laos, A Living Art from
Birth to Death," contained in a 1993 publication, Textiles of Asia: A Common
Heritage (Center for the Promotion of Arts and Culture, Chiang Mai University,
p. 67):
"During the war, many people were killed and displaced. People were poor and
did not have the opportunity to create the masterpieces of these crafts.
Many traditional textiles were damaged; when families left their homes, they
would put the prized weaving in jars and bury them in the ground. Some of these
textiles have been burned, others were taken out of the country by escaping
Lao families, and still others were sold to purchase necessities.
Antique textiles with natural dyes are now being sold to foreigners for high
prices; for these reasons, textiles are becoming scarce in Lao P.D.R. This also
means that the Tai-Lao weavers are losing the fine examples of weaving that
they need to learn from."
How much more must have Cambodia suffered? These fine Khmer weavings come from
the pre-war period, so I have the impression that they are important for that
reason alone though I have no knowledge of these phasins except from what I
can glean from their appearance. Every one of the Khmer weavings in Ajarn Wismai's
collection has a very distinctive soft feel to the touch which I think must
be the result of the fine weave and thin silk used. They are completely different
from any of the phasins I've seen from Thailand. Most have a dark purple cast
to them; the ikat designs are finely done, and these designs are radically different
from any in Thailand.
Geometric forms are prominent, but there are hardly any bright colors. I conjecture
that they seem like the kind of thing that well-to-do older women might wear
and the kind of thing one could sell in a neighboring country in order to survive.
Steve, you mentioned that you have a text on Khmer weavings. Can you be of any
help here?
Here's a group of four that seem similar to me.
Here are five others that are a little brighter.
Walt
Hi Walt
I do have some published sources on Khmer textiles, and will try to find time
to look for relevant material later today. I also own several Khmer pieces,
some long wrappers that were worn as pantaloons, some sewn skirts.
You mention the distinctive feel that old Khmer silks have, and I'll confirm
that. They nearly float on your fingers, and are easily distinguished from more
modern weavings by touch.
The sort of acidic green on some of those you present is very distinctive to
Khmer silks, although rather uncommon even on them.
Thanks for introducing these, and thanks to your friends for allowing us to
share them.
Regards
Steve Price