TurkoTek Discussion Boards

Subject  :  The Holbein Connection
Author  :  Daniel Deschuyteneer
Date  :  09-05-2000 on 08:41 a.m.
daniel.d@infonie.be Dear all, It seems that very few examples of Caucasian rugs having similar main border as my Kazak rug are available. Christoph posted the photo of a Seichur rug with a similar "four arrows" border in another thread. Here is one more example from the southwest Caucasian area. It's a close up from a Zakatala rug illustrated in Mythos und Mystik - Adil Besim – Band 1- plate20. Adil Besim told me during the last London Hali Fair, that field researches prove that this area was inhabited by Kurdish people.
The border of this rug is interesting as it is perhaps the best example illustrating Marla’s thoughts about the warp substitution origins of the "four arrows motif" made with triangles and angular hooked attachments. A clear differentiation between the vertical and horizontal elements can be well seen. As a reminder, she said in an earlier thread: "The four-part "rosettes" in both of Daniel's rugs (and this one) display clear tell-tale signs of derivation from TWO-PART motifs. The horizontal and vertical parts are differentiated--that is, they are shaped in different ways. This characteristic is common when composite motifs are constructed from simpler one-directional forms--in this case a simple vertical border figure" …… . In later examples, weavers gradually added stems, then hooks, to these side parts, forming "rosettes." She said also: Even when the motif was developed further by Talish weavers, a few of the earliest plump, refined rosettes display tell-tale signs of their origins--horizontal/vertical differentiation." Concerning this second point Marla, I have some difficulties to share your thoughts for the following reasons. 1/ I don’t clearly see the "arrows" is this "rounded Talish" rosette. For the "angular four arrows " rosettes we can find a lot of various rendering and intermediary stages of evolution of this two-part motifs. For the "rounded Talish" rosette I didn’t find any example showing clearly several stages of evolution. Sure we can maybe find one or another example which is somewhat more geometric but is it enough to say that these rosette are also two-part motifs? Sometimes, different colors were used in the horizontal and vertical elements of this rounded rosette but the shape of the vertical and horizontal elements are always strictly similar. 2/ I don’t think that the Talish weavers developed further this motif, as it existed already in Anatolian rugs from the 15th century. I have assembled in this picture the earliest stages of the "Talish" rosette appearing in 15th and 16th century Holbein and re-entrant Bellini rugs. Considering these examples I think that the rounded Talish rosette didn't evolve since at least 500 years.
Close up from left to right H. Kirscheim - Orient Stars plate 298 H. Kirscheim - Orient Stars plate 161 Aslanapa – One thousand years of Turkish carpets - plate 55 3/ The earliest 18th century Talish rug I know is illustrated in "Pacific Collection" plate 213 page 206, and it has a "floral meander" border.
I think that Talish weavers just borrowed their 19th century "rounded rosette border" from 15th century Anatolian rugs such as weavers of "pinwheel" Kazak did. In this late case the rosette has been modified but it doesn't evoke a two-part motif.
Thanks, Daniel

Subject  :  RE:The Holbein Connection
Author  :  Michael Wendorf
Date  :  09-05-2000 on 09:43 a.m.
Dear Daniel: How do you fit the Talish - like rugs originating in Anatolia such as plate 25 in Brueggemann and Boehmer that Mike Tschebull made reference to last night in the border thread into your theory and what are the implications, if any, on the Talish rugs? A number of Holbein rugs show four part rosettes - some with signs of interlacing and others without. I think we need to assemble many more examples before drawing too many conclusions. Guido Imbimbo has identified several examples of each. Perhaps he can post them for comparison. Thanks, Michael

Subject  :  RE:The Holbein Connection
Author  :  Guido Imbimbo
Date  :  09-05-2000 on 07:50 p.m.
Dear Daniel at all, I attached some pictures of Holbein "guls" (the source is the controversial but beautifully illustrated book by Volkmar Gantzhorn,p.253). The second gul,in the first row, contains a typical "rosette" design. The first gul, second row, contains clearly an "interlaced" device. Finally, the borders of all these guls present in some way an "interlaced" motive decoration. People in this Salon have remarked the presence of "interlace" motive in Coptic design and asked about possible influence on subsequent weaving production. I do not want to jump to any conclusion, but I simply note that "rosette" and "interlace" devices appear together in Holbein carpets. Con simpatia Guid

Subject  :  RE:The Holbein Connection
Author  :  Michael Wendorf
Date  :  09-05-2000 on 10:02 p.m.
Dear All: The Holbein examples posted by Guido raise some interesting issues. In concept and design, these 4 Holbein motifs seem to all share more than mere passing similarities. Yet, as Marla observed, interlaces are pen and paper (or brush and papyrus) concepts while the two-part or "arrow" related rosette motifs represent a straightforward on-the-loom design development. Perhaps the explanation for seeing both types used interchangeably is that these 15th and 16th century Holbein rugs already reflect a mature or later stage of evolutionary sequence. To get deeper in the details we must, as Marla suggested, find more intermediate examples. Given the few existent carpet and textile fragments that remain from intermediate periods, it seems to me that Coptic textiles do offer one possibility for such examples insofar as we have seen that what would appear to be related examples of the interlaced type rosette existed at least as early as the 4th-5th century. Presumably the two-part or arrow type existed well before that give its likely origins in warp substitution. Thanks to Guido for the images. Michael

Subject  :  RE:The Holbein Connection
Author  :  Deschuyteneer+Daniel
Date  :  09-06-2000 on 12:23 p.m.
Daniel Deschuyteneer Dear Michael, Unfortunately I don’t possess the book “Rugs from the peasants of Anatolia” and can’t therefore do any comments until one of us post a copy of plate 25 to which you and Mike are referring. I haven’t any theory, I just observe that the same Talish rosette as the rosette appearing in Holbein rugs, appear in the borders of 19th century Talish rugs and that they don’t in 18th century Talish rugs. Many thanks Guido for all your helpful photos Thanks, Daniel

Subject  :  RE:The Holbein Connection
Author  :  Christoph+Huber
Date  :  09-06-2000 on 06:55 p.m.
huber-ch@pilatusnet.ch Dear all Interlaced, three-dimensional infinity versus two-dimensionality, that seems to be one of the questions... Taking an eighth of the interlaced, three-dimensional Coptic medallion we can mirror it until we get the "Talish-rosette". (Where the three-dimensionality is theoretically still present, but in the general impression lost.) Because of its complexity the rapid loss of the interlaced quality of an ornament is quite understandable. If we look at the two Holbein guls in the second row of the picture Guido posted above we can see this mechanism in an other example: While in the centre of the left gul the red and white crosses are clearly interlaced, they aren't anymore in the right one: Here, rather simply, the green one lies on the white. When I in the other thread first mentioned the Holbein gul in relation to the Coptic rosette, I meant the border. As Guido says in his post above it has an interlaced quality although we can't really see the three-dimensional structure (anymore). But, despite its common use, I'm still unhappy about the term "Coptic". Let me try to paraphrase some sentences from Musée d'art et d'histoire Fribourg: Textilien aus Ägypten(Berne,1991): "Ninety percent of all late-antique and early Christian textiles were found in Egypt. [...] This rich material gives us a impressive picture of the production of textiles from the 3. - 12. century. Until recent times Egyptian textiles were generally called "Coptic textiles", a term which refers to the products of the Egyptian Christians. The new interest of the last ten years in late-antique art and the resulting knowledge let recently to a more differentiated view on Egyptian textiles.[...]" Not every textile preserved in Egypt originated there and not every ornament documented on "Coptic textiles" has something to do with the early Christians of Egypt or with Egypt generally. In the first chapter of this catalogue it is stated that at the time when the Egyptians began to decorate their textiles (3. century) they did so long after the bordering regions have done the same. As luxurious items textiles were imported to Egypt from regions as for example Syria and Anatolia. It is also mentioned that there existed painted ornament models for weavers. (This seems to me an indication that pen and paper concepts weren't totally unusual for all weavers.) While looking through the chronologically arranged catalogue I got the impression of rather different periods: One style in the first period (3. - 5. century) is the one of Wendel's Coptic rosette. Here an other example which looks (apart from the Gorgon head) very "Islamic" to me. (Compare its interlaced frame to the 10. century Central Asian silver plate with the Sassanian inspired Simurgh.) Then, after the ones I would call "Classic Coptic" there follow many fragments with Sassanian influence (6./7. century). Later, in Arabic times, there is among others again a geometric, interlaced style which has many similarities with the earlier one. (The dating of one piece reads: "6. - 7. or 10. - 11. century") Here the "Islamic look" seems more plausible and there seem to be many parallels to Oriental carpets. If my impression of these different styles is more or less correct a lot of questions arise:
  • Did the early geometric style emerge in Egypt "out of nothing", or was it imported just as the Sassanian style? And if it was, from where?
  • Was the later geometric style always more or less present from the 3. to the 11. century or was it reintroduced? From where?
  • If we talk about a possible "Coptic connection" do we mean that ornaments were introduced or passed on by Egypt to somewhere else? Or do we look for the roots of the Coptic textile ornaments (or the origin of the imports) and try to find direct connections between (for example) Sassanian art and Oriental carpet ornaments? Regards, Christoph

  • Subject  :  RE:The Holbein Connection
    Author  :  Wendel+Swan
    Date  :  09-07-2000 on 02:22 p.m.
    Dear Christoph, Daniel and all, Christoph's illustrations and comments on the use of the term "Coptic" are helpful in this discussion. I was aware of the controversy, but I didn't (and still don't) know enough of the history of the period to make appropriate distinctions. It may at times be difficult to distinguish between versions of what have been referred to as "two part" or "four part" rosettes on the one hand and interlace on the other, despite certain obvious differences between them. The design principles used to create and execute them must have been quite similar, except that interlace implies an expression of infinity and would seem to be a bit more difficult for the weaver (or any other artisan) to achieve because it is not absolutely symmetrical. Using principles of symmetry, a "medallion" can be created from a single motif by rotation of that motif around a central point or by reflection (folding) of it. These techniques can also be combined in various ways. In practical terms, from a single well-learned element a weaver can create a more complex pattern by manipulating the single element in various ways. Cartoons for medallion rugs, for example, are seldom more than one-fourth the entire rug. Because of the increased complexity of an interlace medallion, simple reflection and rotation are not sufficient to construct one. Separately working out the over and under results in what is for me one of the marvels of Islamic art. As example of how symmetry can function, following is an image I drew for the poster session in Milan as one step in the creation of the unique "Lesghi star" from a single, simple motif that was translated, rotated and reflected continuously. The following five images illustrate the difficulties in making rigid distinctions between the rosettes and the medallions. Between the now familiar Luri, Talish and Kazak "rosettes," are the "Coptic" interlace (on which I have placed some colored squares) and yet another variation of the rosette illustrated by Kirchheim in Orient Stars and attributed by him possibly to the 16th Century. During the course of this salon I have come to see the Talish and Luri examples (along with the Belouch) as parallel versions of the "two part" or bilaterally symmetrical "rosette" in Daniel's rugs. Each seems to have its own lengthy but separate history. The colored diamonds and squares in the Coptic interlace are shown where there is negative space. These correspond exactly to the diamonds and squares of the Talish, Luri and Belouch rosettes. This seems to me to be at least some indication that there was an interlace somewhere in the "bloodline" of those three. Proof? Of course not. A side observation. Especially in the Luri rosette, note that one can additionally read the elements on the diagonal axes, so that it could be said to be a four-part composition of the so-called "ram's horns" devices that Christoph has illustrated. This may not, long ago, have been unintentional. Duality is a common characteristic of Islamic design and, as I think we can speculate, in the various design traditions from which it may have emerged. Returning to the comparison below that I presented in my first post, we can see that the use of color creates the illusion of interlace in the five examples on the right side. Note, for example, in the border motifs of Daniel's Kazak that the red and blue seem to cross in the center to form an "S" shape. This could be seen as a characteristic of interlace, even though a schematic of the element would not show interlace. (And I am clearly not stating that the two- or four-part medallion is interlace.) While interlace does mean "over and under," there is another important aspect:: the paths forming the interlace cross the quadrants or halves. The lines of the Luri and Belouch (and Talish) rosettes could easily be seen as extending through the center, much as an interlace would, yet the absence of color creates an entirely different effect. In these examples some readers may find factors to declare either "four part" medallion or "two part" medallion or "interlace" but others, like me, may find great ambiguity. This drawing illustrates again the effect of color. Element A could be a two part device created by reflection (folding) on either the vertical or the horizontal axis, simply because there is no color. Or it could be a four-part device through a combination of reflection and a second reflection. But you can't create Element B by reflecting on either the horizontal or the vertical axes because of the introduction of color. (It is possible, of course, to create B by rotating one half of it 180 degrees.) You can achieve Element C by simply reflecting B. In the "Coptic" textiles we see primarily black and white. The introduction and use of color changes our perspective and the issues. One of the features I like most about the borders in Daniel's rugs is the complexity of the color and the dynamic its use creates. The NWP or Caucasian interpretation is most distinctive for that reason, even though it may be similar to and share some form of design evolution with the interlace models. When this salon ends, I hope that we can collectively say that rather than finding all the answers, we have asked the right questions. I know that some of the discussion caused me to reassess my own thoughts on subjects that I had been thinking about for quite a while. We can all learn a lot more from one another than we can by ourselves. Best, Wendel

    Subject  :  RE:The Holbein Connection
    Author  :  Deschuyteneer Daniel
    Date  :  09-07-2000 on 05:55 p.m.
    Daniel Deschuyteneer Dear all, Marla Mallett said in an earlier posting: “The three-dimensional continuously interlacing scrollwork seen throughout Byzantine, Coptic and early Islamic art has little in common with four-part multi-colored rosettes made with triangles and angular hooked attachments--including those with eventually rounded corners Elaborate interlaces are pen and paper (or brush and papyrus) concepts, while the knotted pile motifs in the arrow borders represent a straightforward on-the-loom design development. “ I can clearly see, these four part multi-colored rosettes made with TRIANGLES oriented to the center having angular hooked attachments and HORIZONTAL/VERTICAL differentiation in the five last “rosette” Wendel has illustrated (on the right). Notice also that the weaver always used only one color to drawn them except in the last Anatolian example.
    Marla, having read some of your articles and having seen a lot of examples of this arrow (and half-arrow motif) as well as examples of other motif during one of your lecture, I know the technical background an I am convinced that this motif originate from the warp substitution weave. It would be interesting for the readers of this Salon, who didn’t had the opportunity and the chance to attend one of your lecture, to have access to one of your article. Why not putting one on your Website along with some photos? Although, I am not convinced that the “Round Talish” rosette followed the same path, for the following reasons. 1/ The “Baluch” rosette illustrates by Wendel shows horizontal/vertical differentiation. Take a look at the way the interior linear hooks are formed and the way the small black diamonds are placed. But these differences seem minimal to me, compared to the lot of transitional forms of the “angular arrow” motif. 2/ Also, in the three first rosette, at the left, it’s impossible to see these small TRIANGLES oriented to the center because they “don’t exist”. There are just DIAMONDS. It seems to me that the motifs illustrated by Christoph represent these intermediary forms that we needed, at least if it is realistic that WEAVERS dissected the INTERLACED motif as he did, and translated, reversed and rotated it to create the Talish rosette.. Thanks, Daniel

    Subject  :  RE:The Holbein Connection
    Author  :  Deschuyteneer Daniel
    Date  :  09-07-2000 on 05:59 p.m.
    Dear all, Marla Mallett said in an earlier posting: “The three-dimensional continuously interlacing scrollwork seen throughout Byzantine, Coptic and early Islamic art has little in common with four-part multi-colored rosettes made with triangles and angular hooked attachments--including those with eventually rounded corners Elaborate interlaces are pen and paper (or brush and papyrus) concepts, while the knotted pile motifs in the arrow borders represent a straightforward on-the-loom design development. “ I can clearly see, these four part multi-colored rosettes made with TRIANGLES oriented to the center having angular hooked attachments and HORIZONTAL/VERTICAL differentiation in the five last “rosette” Wendel has illustrated (on the right). Notice also that the weaver always used only one color to drawn them except in the last Anatolian example.
    Marla, having read some of your articles and having seen a lot of examples of this arrow (and half-arrow motif) as well as examples of other motif, I know the technical background an I am convinced that this motif originate from the warp substitution weave. It would be interesting for the readers of this Salon, who didn’t had the opportunity and the chance to attend one of your lecture, to have access to one of your article. Why not putting one on your Website along with some photos? Although, I am not convinced that the “Round Talish” rosette followed the same path, for the following reasons. 1/ The “Baluch” rosette illustrates by Wendel shows horizontal/vertical differentiation. Take a look at the way the interior linear hooks are formed and the way the small black diamonds are placed. But these differences seem minimal to me, compared to the lot of transitional forms of the “angular arrow” motif. 2/ Also, in the three first rosette, at the left, it’s impossible to see these small TRIANGLES oriented to the center because they “don’t exist”. There are just DIAMONDS. It seems to me that the motifs illustrated by Christoph represent these intermediary forms that we needed, at least if it is realistic that WEAVERS dissected the INTERLACED motif as he did, and translated, reversed and rotated it to create the Talish rosette.. Thanks, Daniel

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