BAGFACEBACK.JPG (74411 bytes)

Dimension : H 52 cm V 62 cm (1'9" x 2'1")

Knots: symmetrical,. 36v x 32h per 10 cm (72 knots/square inch), pile height : 3mm

Warps: three ply hand spun cotton (Z3S) no warp displacement.

Wefts: two different wefts between two rows of knots. One is a two or three ply hand spun cotton (it varies from place), the second is a very thin sinuous single of brown wool.

BAGFACESELVEDGE1.JPG (42659 bytes) bagfaceREPRODUCED1.JPG (47099 bytes) BAGFACESELVEDGE2.JPG (58346 bytes)
Selvage: round, interlaced by the ground wefts and overcast by an additional selvage yarn. 2 cords units (1,1), of three ply hand spun cotton (Z3S) reinforced by interlacing of the ground wefts. In the other selvage there is an extra ground warp (error of weaving). The additional selvage yarn is a thick single of wool encircling the selvage without interlacing.

As I didn't know how to describe the weft interlacing I asked Marla Mallett for help. Her commentary about this selvage, reproduced with her permission:

"The construction is one that I mentioned in my book, but did not diagram...I should have done so. On page 42 I have explained that whenever a weaver uses two different weft yarns, she needs to make some accommodation at the selvedge so that the fabric doesn't fall apart! I drew two solutions; the simplest, however, is to just twist the two yarns together at the edge, like on your bag. That can get bulky and messy if the twist is left on the outside edge, and usually the weaver will pull the twist (interlock) inward as in your example, making a loop. Then everything is covered by overcasting. The solutions I have drawn are those more usually found. Yours, I would just describe as "wefts twisted together at the selvedge." Or you could say "wefts interlocked at the selvedge."

Near the end of my web site WOVEN STRUCTURES UPDATE page ( I have diagrammed a more complex version of the structural idea on your selvedge, but on a Kirman carpet with a three-warp sequence. On it the different wefts are twisted together (interlocked) as in your bag face, but because of the sequence the overcasting yarn have also been interlocked with the wefts!