Advice on hanging on wall
I recently discovered this Forum and, since I think I may be a latent oriental rug addict, expect to revisit it often. Pardon my making my first-ever post of such an elementary one. I would like to hang one a 3 X 5 (possibly) Yomut rug on the wall, also a 1 X 5 torba. I would be grateful for advice on how best to do that. One rug merchant recommended I have loops sewn onto the backs, then hang them on a rod that runs through them. However, the idea of all that stitching going into the knots makes me a bit uneasy. Using the alligator clips the rug merchants use for displaying rugs in there stores was not recommended for long-term hanging. Any other methods I might consider?
Hi Jim
First, welcome to Turkotek.
Stitches through the
foundation of a rug won't hurt it a bit, although I've never found the sewn-on
loops method to be very satisfactory. It makes setting the rug's position on the
wall kind of inexact, and it's surprising how obvious it can be if the rug isn't
parallel to the nearest vertical or horizontal feature of a wall (like a corner
or a ceiling).
For lightweight rugs like a 3 x 5 or a torba, I find that
the strips carpet installers use (about 3' long wooden slats with lots of little
nails sticking out of them) work very well. I screw them into the wall, then
just hang the rug (torba, juval) on the little nails. This lets me adjust the
angle of the rug very easily, and also gives a couple of inches leeway in the
height.
Another method that works well, but is a little more trouble, is
to glue some velcro onto a thin wooden slat, screw the slat onto the wall, sew
(loose basting stitches are adequate) the mating velcro onto the back of the rug
a little below the top, then hang the rug by the velcro. This, too, gives a lot
of leeway in the angle and the height.
For even smaller pieces (say,
bagfaces that are about 2' square), just tacking them to a wall with two or
three wire brads suffices.
Regards
Steve Price
Jim, Steve--
I tried the carpet tack-strip technique once on a small
Tekke rug, and I was convinced that all those nails chewed up the back of the
rug a bit. I believe in the "first, do no harm" policy on these things, and I
think those strips do some damage.
I have had fabric sleeves with a
wooden piece in them put in, which I think is the official museum technique, and
while it does no damage, I didn't like the way it held the rug away from the
wall. The other problem is that if the piece is irregular in any way, it looks
pretty bad.
So, I asked my favorite dealer what he does, and he uses
those heavy T-pins and snips off the "T". I asked if it ever stretched out the
fabric and he stressed that you have to use a bunch of them for a large piece,
but he even hangs main carpets that way. I found that the wire brads Steve
mentioned are the same thickness (and need no snipping), so I have been doing
that ever since. Even on a pretty big Luri main carpet I have hanging here,
which has eight or nine of those brads, there is no stretching. On that one, I
am thinking of trying the velcro technique because it is pretty large and heavy,
but on any of my other smaller rugs, the brad thing works great. I use five or
six on a prayer rug.
Paul
Hi Paul
My impression is that the little nails on carpet strips wind
up going between the foundation yarn strips (pushing them aside, sort of), not
penetrating them. This may not be the case for extremely finely woven rugs,
which could account for Paul's experience with a Tekke. Since they're spaced
every half inch or so, they spread out the stressed area from which the rug
hangs. I would be more concerned with putting, say, three or four small brads
through from the front than putting thirty or forty similarly sized brads
through from the back, which is essentially what carpet strips do. The stress is
more concentrated with the smaller number of hanging points. Anyway, I've never
seen any sign of damage (fraying ,etc.) from using carpet strips or brads,
although I don't use either one on anything that isn't pretty light weight.
Museums use a number of mounting methods, the best of which may be to
set up a slightly slanted board, cover it with a fabric to give its surface some
friction, then lay the rug onto it. This pretty much spreads the weight out over
the rug's surface rather than suspending it from a small region near the top,
and is completely noninvasive.
To make a long story short, I think there
are lots of ways to do it that will work just fine in a home setting. I would
avoid covering a rug with glass or plexiglass, which can trap moisture and cause
damage, and I'd avoid putting it in a place that gets significant
sunlight.
Regards
Steve Price
Hi folks,
I've used the nail strip method and the "sew on a sleeve"
method. The latter is definitely more sewing than I usually need. I do agree
with Paul, though, that the carpet layers' strips have a tendency to chew up the
back of the rug. It is because the many little points just grab onto the back
surface of the rug, like industrial strength velcro, and can abraid it if the
rug is moved too much, or removed and reapplied too often. I think it works well
if one puts the piece on with care abnd leaves it alone.
Another method
I've used successfully is to work a number of stout lengths of thread (button
and carpet thread works well) at one end of the rug through the back rug to the
front, around one or two warps, then through to the back again, at regular
intervals along one line of weft. The result is that you have several double
lengths of the thread along one line of weft at the back of the rug that can be
tied to a rod. Ten inch intervals or so work fine. When the thread is first
worked through to the front of the rug, it is necessary to bury it in the pile
before pushing it back out the rear so it won't show on the surface of the
displayed rug. Kabish? You now have a rod tied evenly to the back of the rug
along one horizontal, and the rod can then be suspended to something anchored to
the wall. This method is best used with rugs that have some stiffness to them,
as the very supple ones will hang over at the top. (Did anybody say,
"Baluch?")
I would mention that if you plan to stick brads or other fine
nails through the rug, try to work the point of the nail through an interstice,
rather than just drive the sucker through there. I mean, find a natural little
gap in the weave. These rugs don't like getting stabbed, but you knew that.
quote:
Another method that works well, but is a little more trouble, is to glue some velcro onto a thin wooden slat, screw the slat onto the wall, sew (loose basting stitches are adequate) the mating velcro onto the back of the rug a little below the top, then hang the rug by the velcro. This, too, gives a lot of leeway in the angle and the height.
Hi, Steve, Paul and Richard:
Well, I have to thank you all for your
excellent advice. I think I'm going to "like this place." The carpet strip idea
was one I thought of just the other day, and the idea of possibly using brads
spaced at frequent enough intervals is definitely worth considering. Thanks,
again, guys!
Jim
HI Jim,
I was wondering whether you were considering giving us a look
at your soon to be hung Yomud.
__________________
Rich
Larkin
As a matter of fact, I have been intending to post some photos of the Yomud (to verify that it is, in fact, that tribe's). I'm also planning on posting photos of a tekke rug that I picked up at a local antique shop, where it had be placed alongside several junk rugs. (Antique Roadshow, are you heading this way?) I must admit, though, I'm a little hesitant to do the above because I'm pretty much a beginner and there are some very knowledgeable guys on this forum--and I wouldn't want to distress them in the event my new acquisitions aren't the real deal....
Hi Jim
Ruggies deal with disappointment every day. Don't worry - they
can take it.
Regards
Steve Price
Definitions
Jim,
I tried the velcro thing once, but it took a lot of work to sew
one piece onto the rug and, as with the tack strip, it must be nailed or screwed
onto the wall, so if you have pieces of different sizes they do not easily
interchange places. I use upholstery tacks. They are like typical tacks, but
longer and sturdier. As Steve says, the heavier the piece, the more
tacks.
Steve said ruggies are often disappointed. But you said you did
not want to distress us.
Disappointment is finding a faded
synthetic dye on the piece you just got from e-bay.
Distress is
finding moths inhabiting your rug collection.
Discouragement is
comparing your rugs with other folks rugs.
Depression is when you
try to sell your rugs.
I suggest just enjoying what you have, visit
Turkotek to see what others have and keep an eye out for the next nice thing.
Patrick Weiler
Hi Patrick,
I encountered the problem of using the carpet laying
strips, then finding that they were too long when I wanted to put a smaller rug
up there. I put it up anyway, and just let the extended ends of the strips stick
out.
"How tacky!" said all my friends.
__________________
Rich
Larkin
I don't know if it's kosher to bring up a different subject on this thread, but since you brought up the subject of dyes, how can you tell vegetable dyes in a rug and synthetic dyes?
Experiment
Jim,
The only way known to differentiate between vegetal dyes and
synthetic dyes (other than expensive and invasive chemical testing) is to eat
some of them, a cup or so will do fine. If you feel OK afterwards, they were
probably vegetal. If you feel a bit queasy, they were synthetic.
Unfortunately, quite often the
symptoms do not appear for up to 20 years or more and some synthetic dyes are
probably cancer-causing.
Helpfully yours,
Patrick Weiler
P.S. I do not
recommend this method of dye testing and please do not sue me. My only asset is
a hideously dyed Pak Bokara mat as shown in an earlier posting.
On second
thought, please sue me. It would allow me to pass along the Pak Bokara.
Hi Jim
The dyes issue is less straightforward than you might think. I
suggest going to our home page and using the Google thing to search for "natural
dyes" (or "synthetic dyes"), using the Search Turkotek option. It will turn up a
lot of information from which you can form your own opinions about how to do it
and how reliable the results are likely to be.
Regards
Steve
Price
Thanks, Steven. I think I'll try your approach to determining whether a textile has been vegetal or sythetic dyed. Patrick's method could lead to someone asking at my funeral the ultimate of punning answers to the question, "What did he die of?"
Wise decision Mr. Bond.
You Only Live Twice after all…
Patrick,
Don't think for one second I've forgotten that khorjin you
brought back from Turkey (Boteh tribe) with the bite out of it. Having seen your
portrait in the Gallery, I knew just about anything was possible, yet I never
considered dye testing.
Good colors in that piece?
__________________
Rich
Larkin
Here is my solution to hanging small rugs.
I have used the brads, but
unless the piece is very small/light, I hate to put that much localized stress
on the warps that rest on the brad. I have tried sewing on velcro or fabric
strips, that better distribute the weight, but I can't sew for beans and I like
to rotate the pieces I hang, so that doesn't work well.
What I did
discover are these small wooden clamps that are used to hang quilts. They are
essential two small (1-2 inch) pieces of molding back-to-back and held together
with a thumb screw. So they form kind of an open ended clam shell but hinged in
the middle. I place a wooden dowel in the clamp on one side of the screw and the
rug on the other side and clamp down with the screw. The clamps are smooth
(unlike alligator clasps) and I place them every 8-12 inches depending on the
weight of the rug. I then hand the wooden dowel on hooks that are already in the
wall. The down side is that the hanging apparatus shows. But the upside is that
within a few minutes I can switch out rugs that are on display. It is kinda nice
every month or so to dig through the high tech rug depository (back shelf of my
clothes closet) and dig out old friends that I can then see on a daily
basis.
I found the clamps on an online quilt supply store.
Cheers
to all
Jim
The attached link leads a a site that discusses quite a number of alternative
methods for hanging textiles on the wall. You'll note that the writer is an
adamant opponent to using carpet installation strips, maintaining the damage the
rug and eventually rust. The trouble is, from my point of view, most of the
suggestions she lists involve sewing, which is not among my meager list of
talents.
http://www.marlamallett.com/mounting.htm
Hi Jim
Marla generally knows what she's talking about, and I put a lot
of credence into things she says. But the fact is that tack strips have been
used for carpet installation for decades, and I've never heard of them rusting.
I suppose they would if a flood hit the room, but otherwise I don't see how it
could happen.
As for the little tacks tearing up the fibers, unless
somebody has a method for sewing that doesn't involve needles penetrating the
textile, how can tacks that are about the diameter of small needles do more
damage than sewing does?
Regards
Steve Price
Thanks, Steve. You made several very good ...ahem.. points. Blessings and
salutations on you for sparing me the chore of learning how to sew (for finding
someone I trust with my rugs).
Jim
Hi Steve,
I think the big fear about the nail strips is that the
points tend to be less refined in the finish than one finds on sewing needles,
so that tiny barbs and hooks lurk waiting to abraid your rug. Also, the ends are
faceted, they way a pencil point would be that you sharpened with a knife,
rather than the smooth cone end of a needle. The overall result is that as the
piece moves on the strips, due to handling or whatever (e. g., my office is next
to the railroad track, and the vibration can be significant) there is some
potential for "sawing" action on the back of the rug. Finally, with a needle,
one can carefully work it through interstices in the weave, thus minimizing the
potential for damage too the fabric.
Hi Rich
I hadn't thought about the shape of the intruding piece of
metal. You're probably right ,which means that I'm probably wrong. I hate it
when that happens.
Steve Price